15kms - then to Arca

A bus day for Matt, who was still suffering with his feet. A 15 km walk for me.

The Albergue we stayed in last night did not provide breakfast, which seems to be the norm on this busy part of the walk.

(Many people start in Sarria to accomplish just the last 100kms. In fact, we heard that Spanish teens and young adults often walk it as it looks good on their CV for jobseeking.)

What this meant in practical terms was...I left without breakfast. Not such a big stream of pilgrims this morning, I think because I left early. It was not till 9.45am that I came to a stall where I purchased a slice of fresh curd cheese spread with quince paste (v. Yummy 1Euro), a banana (v. Rare .60c).

I walked over friendly rolling country. No bad ups or downs, through the trail was not flat. At 11.30 I stopped and managed to buy a coffee and an empanada.

Birds sang, a cool wind blew freshly, and the sun stayed behind the clouds. Great for walking.

At about 12.30 or so I had finished my 15km and arrived in Arzua. Oh deary me. The best thing about this place was it's enchanting name. Nothing else was enchanting. Dirty, concrete bunker buildings, a busy, truck lined main street. Dour and uncompromisingly a feeder town for a city. Ugly, ugly.

Matt was there, having managed the bus trip and we had some lunch while deciding on strategy.  Eventually we caught the bus to Arca, about 20km down the line. Prettier definitely, and our Albergue is a cut above the rest. It's clean, has enough toilet paper (rare), hand soap (gasp) and even hand towels (supergasp). Those items are usually all missing!

We plan to walk the last 20kms together tomorrow. So long as we arrive before 7pm to the Pilgrim Office all will be well.

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